Stone Town: what's actually worth your time

Stone Town smells of cloves, diesel and grilled fish, in that order, and no photograph prepares you for it. Give it two nights, comfortable shoes and no schedule.

How to approach Stone Town

Stone Town, the old quarter of Zanzibar City, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and small enough to cover on foot. Its appeal is the town itself: narrow lanes, carved doors, coral-stone houses, and centuries of Swahili, Arab, Indian and European influence layered into one old trading port. Plan a day and a half to two days. One full day is the minimum, and a third day starts to feel long.

Walk the old town without a fixed plan

Spend a morning getting pleasantly lost. The carved wooden doors, many with brass studs, are a Swahili craft tradition, and the oldest ones date back to the early 19th century. A guided walking tour is worth it for the history. Then you can wander on your own afterwards, once you know what you are looking at. Start early, before the heat and the day-trip crowds arrive.

House of Wonders and the Old Fort

The House of Wonders (Beit el-Ajaib) was built in 1883 as a ceremonial palace and was famed in its day for having electricity and an elevator, the first in East Africa. It towers over the seafront and is still the town's most recognizable landmark.

Right next door, the Old Fort was built by Omani Arabs in the late 17th century to defend against Portuguese attacks. Today it houses a small courtyard amphitheater, craft stalls and a cafe, and it is a pleasant, low-key stop.

The old slave market and Anglican Cathedral

Zanzibar was East Africa's main slave-trading hub in the 19th century. The Anglican cathedral was built in the late 1870s on the site of the former slave market, and there is a small museum and the remains of the underground holding chambers. It is a sobering visit, best done with a guide who can give you the full context, and one of the most important stops in town.

The best of Stone Town happens in the gaps between the sights.

Forodhani Gardens at night

Every evening this waterfront park turns into a street-food market: grilled seafood, skewers, sugarcane juice, and Zanzibari pizza, a folded, stuffed savory pancake cooked in front of you. It is touristy and still genuinely good. Go around sunset, pick busy stalls where the food comes straight off the grill, and agree on prices before you order.

A spice tour

Zanzibar earned the name Spice Island from its clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla plantations. A half-day tour on the edge of town shows how the spices grow, lets you taste and smell them, and usually ends with a Swahili lunch. Book through your hotel or a licensed operator, and ask whether lunch is included.

Prison Island (Changuu)

A 20-to-30-minute boat ride from the harbour, Prison Island is home to giant Aldabra tortoises, brought from the Seychelles in the early 20th century, and has a small reef that is fine for a short snorkel. It can be busy with tour groups in the middle of the day, so go early or late if you can. Never stand on the tortoises or feed them anything other than the leaves provided.

Darajani Market and the back lanes

Stone Town's main market is a working, unstaged look at daily life: fish, produce, spices and household goods. Go in the morning. The fish and meat sections can be intense, and the spice and fruit stalls are more relaxed. Keep a hand on your bag in the crowds.

Sunset on the water

Traditional wooden dhows run short evening cruises along the harbour, with a different view of the House of Wonders and the Old Fort as the light turns gold. A rooftop terrace is the alternative: several hotels and restaurants around Shangani and the seafront have sunset views and drinks.

A simple plan for two days

Practical tips

• Dress modestly. Zanzibar is conservative. Cover your shoulders and knees in town, especially near mosques and during Ramadan.
• Ask before photographing people. Many locals do not want to be photographed, and some will ask for payment.
• Use official guides. Licensed guides carry ID. Politely decline touts who approach you at the ferry terminal or in the lanes.
• Carry small cash. Many stalls, markets and smaller restaurants take only cash, in shillings or small US dollar notes.
• Navigate with care at night. The lanes are twisty and poorly lit. Stick to busy routes after dark, and take a taxi or tuk-tuk back if you are staying far from the center.

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